The Malaysian heat is not optional. Neither is a cold cabin.

The full aircon workup

1. Performance test — vent temperature at idle, at 2,000 rpm and after a 10-minute drive. We log readings.
2. Visual inspection — condenser fins, hose joints, compressor seal, evaporator drain.
3. Vacuum test — hold vacuum for 30 minutes to confirm there's no slow leak.
4. UV dye detection if a leak is suspected but not visible.
5. Recover, evacuate, recharge using the correct refrigerant — R134a or R1234yf — to the manufacturer's gram-precise spec.
6. Cabin filter replacement and optional odour treatment.

What we fix when the symptom isn't just "not cold"

• Aircon turns off in heavy traffic — usually condenser fan, not compressor
• Musty smell on startup — evaporator and cabin filter, with an ozone treatment
• Whistling or rattling from the dash — blower fan bearing or cabin filter housing
• Water on the passenger floor — clogged evaporator drain, ten-minute job
• Aircon clutch not engaging — pressure switch, relay, low refrigerant or compressor
• Hot air on one side — blend door actuator failure

Refrigerant honesty

Most pre-2017 cars use R134a. Most cars from 2017 onward use R1234yf. R1234yf is more expensive per gram — about three times the cost of R134a. We charge what the refrigerant actually costs, not a flat rate that hides the difference. If a workshop quotes you "RM250 aircon service" without asking what year your car is, ask why.